Prayers and pain, tears and joy keep these walls. For centuries it has served to soothe souls. This unique building has seen ups and downs - from the long chant of Sura to the stockade shelves. But this has not prevented the Janissary Mosque from withstanding the onslaught of time, proving that Chronos has no power over it.
You know, the great Einstein thought time was the fourth dimension. You may ask, what does this have to do with Yali Dzami, the "mosque by the sea" in Chania? Well, we'll answer you - directly! Because this amazing cultic structure from the era of 250 years of Ottoman rule in Crete succumbed to three-dimensional changes, slightly losing its "appearance". But the mosque became a "bride of time", demonstrating that even the strict Chronos has no power over the medieval shrine - the fourth dimension is powerless before the Mosque of Janissaries.
Today the interior has been restored, but the exterior has retained its historical exclusivity. And is it really necessary to touch with modern materials something that has been blown around by the winds of the gulf of Venice for almost 400 years, has seen the Greek victories, the Turkish defeats, and has witnessed the conquest of freedom by Crete?
Now imagine the horror of the orthodox inhabitants of Chania, when in 1645 their little island was filled with the hated Turks. They mocked the Christian churches and faith by throwing down crosses from the tops and putting sickles in their place.
But this mosque was a pleasant exception - although it was built on the foundations of the Venetian bastion, but it was erected without altering the Christian temple - a cult Ottoman structure was erected from scratch by the ruler of Chania - Kucur Hasan. And his name was given to the first name of the mosque.
Imagine, crowds of Turks - in turbans and robes - wandered through the city. They were merchants and warriors, mullahs and eunuchs. But when the Ottoman foot soldiers (janissaries) died, they were buried before the main mosque of Chania. Although the mournful graves have not survived to this day, they gave another name to the structure: the Mosque of the Janissaries.
Admire it at night, when the mysterious illumination excites the imagination. Or by day, when it looks more like a futuristic, squat rectangular building topped with one large, and six small, domes. See, the main dome without the drum is supported by four half arches. Actually, the building looks like a spaceship - so uncharacteristic of either Turkish or Cretan, much less Venetian architecture.
But apparently, the ruler Kucuk Hasan was so taken aback by the drawings of a similar mosque, built by an Armenian architect in the village of Spaniaco, that he decided to surprise the Turks and Cretans with a similar structure. And, you must agree, he succeeded. What is there - to surprise the local people, when even today's citizens and guests of Crete, even without the preserved courtyard with palm trees and janissary shrines, admire this architectural masterpiece of Ottoman rule no less than Hassan's contemporaries.
Today the mosque has been restored inside and even hosts exhibitions there. One of the entrances is a tourist bureau - the Greeks, who are pragmatists, have found an excellent place. But there was a time when in this rarity-cultural building was opened a usual warehouse (just like in our temples under the Soviets). And then - archeological museum (this is a more decent use of sacred areas).
The 250 years of Turkish rule did not pass for Crete without a trace. One out of two inhabitants of the island became a Muslim. But when in 1923 the Ottoman yoke faded and Crete was reunited with Greece, the Muslims left Chania under the repatriation program. That's when the "swan song" of the Janissary Mosque was heard.
Some say that the beginning of the end coincided with 1920, when the minaret was destroyed by the Greeks during the War of Independence. Others say that a Nazi bomb destroyed the cozy spot where the mullah used to summon the faithful for prayers. But no matter how it is, look closely or not, it seems that the Janissary Mosque will no longer be a shrine - a mosque without a minaret is like Greece without the gods.
But whatever the purpose of this building, admire it from the bay! Small, but very remote, it literally captivates with the dualism of antiquity and singularity, proving to all and sundry that the "fourth dimension" is vanity for it.
That is why it happens so - although there are a lot of beauties in the world, and antiquities abound, but there are some that one wants to touch. To feel the joy and sorrow, love and loss, which seem to be transmitted to these modestly silent walls... When visiting the sacred lands of Hellas, be sure to visit Crete. There you must see the wonderful and unique monument of the Ottoman rule, the beautiful and enigmatic Mosque of the Janissaries.
