11 kilometers from Fira is the small town of Exo Gonia. It is an intermediate point between Fira and the popular resort of Kamari. Exo Gonia is known for its ultra-modern art gallery. But true connoisseurs of the past come here to admire the amazing architecture of the church of Panagia Episcopia, built by order of the all-powerful Byzantine emperor.
The powerful forms of the church are a reminder that it was built in harsh medieval times, around the same time that Old Russian architects built churches. Their models were the same - the Byzantine architectural heritage.
The founder of the temple was the Byzantine emperor Alexis I Kiminos. According to legend, he ordered to build a temple in honor of his wife Irene, whom he loved very much and about whom he wanted to leave a memory to descendants all over the empire.
The exact date of the building of the temple is unknown, but construction took place no later than 1100. The temple was built thoroughly and firmly.
The building was constructed as a typical basilica with a cruciform shape. As in any Byzantine temple, the church has five entrances - the western (this is the main one), two northern and southern.
The church is small - its total length is from 10 to 14 meters in different sections.
The altar of the temple is unique in its composition. It is located in the eastern part of the church. To let the sunlight in the altar, the architects have thought up a magnificent and simple solution. They placed in the narrow, but long windows, multicolored fragments of mosaic glass. This creates an unusual play of light and shadow within the temple space.
Some elements of the temple are apparently fragments of an older basilica, such as the ornamental decoration near the altar. In order to protect the church from attacks of enemies, its walls are angular, without external decorative elements, flat like the fortress walls of a medieval castle.
The top of the temple looks something like armor, and the rough tile covering the dome is the helmet of an ancient warrior. The layout of the temple allowed access to the upper terrace from the side vestibules and protected the church from unexpected guests.
The temple was officially dedicated to a significant event in Christianity - the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Frescoes painted in the 11th and 12th centuries and icons of the temple, which were created somewhat later, tell of this story. One of the icons is considered a jewel of Byzantine ecclesiastical painting, the icon of Panagia Glycophilus.
The templo, or altar barrier of the church, is made of marble, on which is made a wonderful beauty of carving, which cannot be repeated by the present masters because of the loss of the carving technique.
For many centuries the temple remained an island beyond the waves of violence and cruelty. Whatever wars, devastating raids or natural disasters shook the island, the church maintained its grandeur.
According to the local community, it is St. Mary who protects the temple with her grace. It remains impregnable to enemies and always welcoming to visitors.
The present temple was built on the site of an even older basilica, built no later than 300-400 AD. That is why the place has been prayed for centuries and exudes grace on everyone who enters its walls.
The church has its own temple feast day that Greeks celebrate with folk festivals and folklore celebrations - August 14. The feast usually begins in the evening and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the savior and benefactress of the temple and the surrounding area.
On August 15, the congregation of the church and guests celebrate the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary with a procession around the church.
A tour of the church and its surroundings will take about 20-30 minutes. Admission is free. Buying a candle or icon is up to each visitor and their desire to donate something for the good of the church.
The church is located on the slope of Mount Elijah the Prophet. The height for climbing is about 600 meters. So it's worth having enough water to visit the church and comfortable clothes to climb. Near the church there is parking for cars, so you can safely drive on the map to the temple.
The easiest way to get there is from Aixa Gonia. There are regular buses from Fira. You can also walk to the church - it's 20-30 minutes from the village. Direct transportation from Fira is 15-20 minutes, depending on the chosen path.
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